Mount Brunswick
As the tallest of Vancouver’s North Shore mountains at 1,788 metres, Mount Brunswick owes its name to the 74 gun, 1665 tonne HMS Brunswick of 1790. Reaching the summit is not for those fearing heights, as the final 200 metre push is completely exposed and features near-vertical drops flanking a terrifyingly skinny ridge. Though for those brave enough to conquer the 1,500 metre ascent, the views from atop are unmatched.
Best tackled from June through October, your ideal trailhead departure time will fluctuate throughout the year - though during the more popular summer months, vehicle parking disappears quickly and it’s advisable to arrive earlier than sunrise. The Mount Brunswick trailhead and a measly dozen or so parking spots, are located at the north end of Sunset Drive in the village of Lions Bay. Aside from the designated trailhead spaces, it’s nearly impossible to find lawful parking opportunities in Lions Bay and their municipal fine for an infraction is a staggering $200. If the small Sunset Drive parking lot is full, the best alternative is along the road near Lions Bay Elementary School, which will add another kilometre or so to your day. Keep in mind that Mount Brunswick, Mount Harvey, Tunnel Bluffs, and access to the Howe Sound Crest Trail - all share a single trailhead. If waking before sunrise and battling other trail users for a precious parking spot isn’t your cup of tea, consider hopping aboard the 262 bus departing from Horseshoe Bay.
Tackling Mount Brunswick is not for the inexperienced or unprepared. Consider your past hiking experiences and compare their distance to elevation ratio to this trek. Ask yourself whether you’re comfortable with heights and moving along dangerously narrow ridges. Have you previously navigated above the treeline in thick clouds with limited visibility? Do you have proper footwear and clothing - proper hiking boots or trail shoes and non-cotton layered clothing options? If the extent of your hiking history is limited to Quarry Rock and you’ve not practiced navigating with a compass - it would be wise to conquer a few less technical trails before heading up Mount Brunswick.
Prior to hitting the trail, it’s important to understand the inherent risk in entering the backcountry. Although you might have cellular reception at the trailhead, once further into your expedition there’s zero guarantee you’ll be able to use your mobile device to call for help if needed. Ensure you’ve shared your hiking plan and established a check-in time with someone reliable who can contact emergency services in the event you don’t return when scheduled. Additionally, it’s critical that you are prepared to care for yourself in the event of an injury or becoming lost. North Shore Search and Rescue recommends ten essential pieces of kit to have in your bag in case of an emergency - the list includes: 1 Flashlight or headlamp and consider bringing a glow stick as backup. 2 Whistle, bear banger, or pencil flare - some means of creating noise. 3 Fire starter, waterproof matches, and a candle. 4 Toque, gloves, Gortex jacket. 5 Pocketknife, ideally a multi tool or pruning saw. 6 Shelter in the form of a large orange plastic bag, or proper emergency bivvy. 7 Extra water and food. 8 First-aid kit and pocket mask. 9 Compass and map, supplemented by a GPS device. 10 At minimum a cellphone, ideally a satellite messenger or satellite telephone.
The trail begins as a wide and rocky road with 1.9 kilometres of uneventful switchbacks, featuring awkward grapefruit-sized stones that are often loose and awaiting unsuspecting ankles - especially during the descent. The initial switchbacks conclude at the junction for Mount Harvey and the West Lion, where the Mount Brunswick trail veers left and narrows to become a skinny single-track path. The rate of ascent slows considerably, remaining nearly flat for roughly 800 metres. During this momentarily relaxing stroll, you’ll cross a few small streams and the sizable Magnesia Creek, which requires crossing a Paul Bunyan fashioned log bridge with a single rope handrail.
Past the casual countryside stroll, the junction for Hat Mountain and Tunnel Bluff signifies a return to climbing. At this point, there’s been roughly 350 metres of elevation gained over three kilometres, but over the coming two kilometres - you’ll face countless short switchbacks with knee-high stairs. These tight switchbacks are littered with gnarled roots and rolling marble-sized rocks that dramatically slow your pace while descending.
After navigating the seemingly endless knee-knackering switchbacks, Mount Brunswick cranks its volume up to eleven. The steepness now demands the use of handholds nearly every second or third step. Thankfully, it is here, just short of the five kilometre mark, that tremendous views of Howe Sound begin to emerge through the trees. Only a few hundred metres further, at roughly 1,100 metres of elevation the forest transitions to stunning character-filled old growth.
A little ways further, the Mount Brunswick trail intersects the Howe Sound Crest Trail. Following the Howe Sound Crest Trail to the North leads to Brunswick Lake, Deeks Lake, and Porteau Cove - and to the South is Magnesia Meadow, The Lions, St. Mark’s Summit, and Cypress Bowl. Continuing up the Mount Brunswick trail, the moss-covered trees start to thin and give way to more exposed rock and an increasingly technical vertical trajectory. From this point onwards, it’s worth slowing down - exam the footing of every step twice before committing your weight. Additionally, as the trees begin to vanish, reflective trail markers and flagging tape are replaced by orange spray-painted dots. Many of the orange navigation dots are extremely faded or their host rocks have crumbled, which can make following the trail quite challenging - especially if the summit is cloaked in clouds.
The final 200 metres can be divided into three distinct sections: 1 the first ridge’s peak, 2 the helicopter platform, and 3 the bonafide summit - each with their own hazards, and each divided by nail-biting precipices. Scrabbling up the first ridge is the least daunting obstacle in reaching the summit. If while scrambling through loose scree you accidentally dislodge a potentially harmful falling rock, check below yourself and be prepared to announce a warning to those hiking below. Happy with the stunning views and either not interested in, or not experienced enough, to tackle the risky business ahead - many hikers wisely end their journey here.
From atop the first ridge’s peak, the full extent of the looming sketchy-saddle is visible below. Descending into the first saddle is best done with a well choreographed foot-first, backwards crawl. Being patient and double checking your footing is critical here, as you’re flanked by unsurvivable drops on both sides. From the bottom of this saddle, the short ascent up the next ridge requires goat-like footing to sidle around a few large rock blocks. Once past the rock hugging station, you’ll have an opportunity to relax on the relatively flat section that’s home to a dilapidated helicopter landing pad. If sixty per cent of hikers end their journey atop the first ridge, a further thirty per cent conclude their day on this second stage.
Stepping down into the second and final precarious saddle isn’t quite as terrifying as the first, but still demands experience in traversing extremely technical routes. This saddle is slightly wider than the first, but also features drops on either side that would undoubtedly be disastrous. Rising from the bottom of the final saddle is a little more gradual and manageable than the first, though the rocks here are knife sharp and the inevitable quadruped movement can be rather painful on hands.
Once clear of the final saddle, Mount Brunswick summit is merely a few wobbly strides away. The perspective form 1,788 metres is like no other, and with an uninterrupted 360 degree view, you’re able to see Mount Garibaldi, Sky Pilot Mountain, and Mount Tantalus to the north, Tetrahedron and Mount Washington to the West, Black Mountain, Hollyburn Mountain and both Lions to the South, and Coquitlam Mountain, Golden Ears and Cathedral Mountain to the East - just to name a few. After scarfing down a few snacks and chugging some much needed hydration, it’s time to turn around and retrace your steps for 7.5 kilometres of knee-screaming descent.
For my most recent hike to the summit, I made the decision ahead of time to move at a quicker pace and packed as light as possible. So, naturally I brought the minimum: a drone, digital SLR, and a single wide-angle lens. The next time I tackle Mount Brunswick, and there will be a next time, I would do so earlier in the season with the hopes of photographing the surrounding mountains with a touch more lingering snowpack, and I would likely bring an additional lens or two… and maybe a tripod. It would also be interesting to hike a loop: up Mount Brunswick, down to the Howe Sound Crest Trail heading south, then up Mount Harvey, and finish back at Sunset Drive.
Disclaimer: Some imagery in this post was captured using a Remotely Piloted Aircraft System (RPAS). The RPAS was deployed, operated, and recovered outside of Provincial Park boundaries. Operation of RPAS adhered to Transport Canada’s Basic Operation regulations.